More advice from readers
Going nuts
Steer clear of Raffles’ Long Bar if you’re not too steady on your feet. It’s
customary for patrons there to discard all their peanut shells on the floor.
When I last went, not long after a knee replacement, I found it tricky to
negotiate the considerable debris, especially when I’d drunk a Singapore
Sling. Make a beeline though for the breathtaking Jurong Bird Park, which is
home to a wealth of exotic and fascinating birds, including a strangely
sinister and morose-looking African shoebill that so riveted me with its
baleful stare that I found it hard to tear myself away.
Gill Tweed, London
Night attraction
The night safari is a must. You get to see nocturnal animals and those that
are more active after dusk, which you won’t see in other zoos. Although
there is a tram tour which many favour, I preferred to walk the trails – the
experience of hearing a lion roar nearby and then spotting it in the dim
light separated by barely perceptible barriers (such as moats and electric
fences) was just amazing. It can get busy, but is well organised and doesn’t
feel crowded. The four hours I was there from dusk to midnight flew by; when
I went back to my hotel I just could not stop thinking of all the animals I
had seen in a unique setting.
Michael Begley, Berwickshire
Wear wellies
Yes of course Singapore is hot and humid and you’ll only be wearing the
flimsiest of clothes, but Wellingtons and a brolly would be a good idea. The
gutters, like deep gorges down the sides of every street, are a clue. Most
afternoons, it doesn’t just rain, it cascades down in solid sheets. Watch
the locals, who seem to know when it will happen. Elegant slender women in
business suits hurry along in plastic boots.
Seeking shelter indoors, I’d recommend the little visited National Art Gallery
(soon to be moved to a new home) with an interesting permanent collection
and a modern extension for temporary exhibitions. The tea room’s good too.
The crazy installations in the painted cement garden eclipse the Venice
Biennale any old day. Definitely worth braving the elements to see.
Myra Robinson, Newcastle
Authentic appeal
Singapore abounds with attractions – the tourist will be impressed by its
clean streets, the neatly dressed people (many glued to their electronic
gadgets), the hotels, gleaming shopping malls, casinos, modern food centres.
But once you feel luxuriated out and yearn for something more authentic, the
beautiful parks, reservoirs, numerous temples, churches, and mosques will
take you into a different, much calmer, world. And if you feel the need to
get away even further from this cosmopolitan environment – escape to Pulau
Ubin. A public bus or taxi will take you from the city to Changi Village
from where you can take a boat across to the small island of Ubin. The
crossing takes just minutes. When you step off the boat you may be forgiven
for thinking you are entering a parallel universe, hardly touched by modern
life, with rickety original wooden Malay kampong houses, and small coffee
shops.
Christiane Hutchins, via email
Meal deal
First-time visitors to Singapore ought to try the food in the little cafés in
the street behind the famous Harry’s Bar. The locals all eat there at
lunchtime and if you join the longest queue you will be guaranteed a great
lunch. You might not know exactly what you are eating but it will not only
be tasty but very different. We went there two days running and the manager
gave us a free drink as we were the only Europeans on either day.
Another must-see is a visit to the Singapore night zoo. A surprising and
spectacular sight to see from your train as you turn a corner is a huge
elephant, followed by giraffes and the amazing flying squirrels.
Judith Arnold, via email
Well preserved
Take a break from the shops and skyscrapers and see some of the disappearing
Peranakan architecture of Singapore. Tanjong Pagar conservation area in the
central business district has some of the best-preserved shophouses painted
lime green, apple green and russet and now quite upmarket for what was once
a ghetto for dock workers and before that a fishing village. At least it is
still there – Singapore’s last surviving Malay fishing village, Pulau
Seking, which consisted of houses on stilts above the water, has
disappeared under a vast landfill site. It’s a shame as that is how
Singapore started which is easy to forget when you are surrounded by the
buildings of one of the most futuristic cities on the planet.
Dr Chris Allen, Bucks
Market day
The Sungei Road Thieves Flea Market at Jalan Besar, near Bugis Station, is
open 1-7pm daily. The oldest flea market in Singapore bang in the middle of
the modern city road. Not only for junk and collectors’ items, but a place
where designers can display their new creations. Although loud and chaotic,
it is very shopper-friendly, offering chairs for the weary and umbrellas to
escape from the hot sun.
Sandra Moran, Berks
In colour
On the first day of my annual working month in Singapore, I always walk up to
the extraordinary Botanic Gardens. I make straight for the Ginger Garden
with more than 500 species of every shape and size; the bananas,
bird-of-paradise plants and spiral gingers all even more spectacular than my
memories from last year’s trip. Flowers of every colour clamour for
attention. I sit for some minutes facing the beautiful lily pond, admiring
the water lilies poking out of the water, the massive lily pads, the mini
turtles, the fish and the dragonflies, always hoping for a glimpse of a
well-camouflaged 2ft-long monitor lizard, sunning itself alongside a tree
stump or laced woodpecker or orange-headed thrush dashing from one plant to
the next. Although it’s only a short walk from the always hectic Orchard
Road, I know I’m back in the paradise that is the Ginger Garden.
Danny Leiwy, Herts
Culinary feast
Singapore is an amazing hot pot of culinary delights. Singaporeans will travel
far and wide in their hunt for the best food in any category. An
off-the-beaten-track place for amazing and cheap food is Chomp Chomp Hawker
centre, far less touristy than the infamous Newton Hawker Centre which is
close to the city. Get some of the best satay-sauce vermicelli, hokkien
prawn noodles, barbecue chilli sting ray, pan-fried carrot cake, Singapore
satays, ice desserts to name just a few well-known ones. There are more than
30 stalls, which have stood the test of time, supported by the locals who
live there and around. A recommended stop for foodies everywhere.
Louis Tan, London
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