Alligator bags come in shocking pink, sunshine yellow, fiery red, deep blue and other hues inspired by the tropical fruits, African violets and signature orchids of his native Singapore.
And there are the animal motifs on the decorative clasps, drawn from Asian cultures: a frog for good luck and prosperity, a hedgehog for freedom and the sensuality of a snake.
Such full-on glamour intended for a rarified clientele seems a lot for a 26-year-old designer to have taken on. Especially as Mr. Koh, who studied at Central St. Martins, only began his Ethan K company three years ago with 3,000 pounds, or about $4,800, borrowed from his father.
But Mr. Koh has a story to tell. Raised in Singapore, part of the fourth generation of a family of artisans and brought up a stone’s throw from the family tannery, the young designer has enough experience to make bespoke bags for a princess.
And one just happened to inquire about Mr. Koh’s own bag outside the Connaught hotel in London one day, eventually joining his affluent coterie of customers.
His bags, which sell at stores like Harrods and Harvey Nichols in Dubai, start at £2,200 for a clutch, while special orders are £25,000 or more.
Mr. Koh’s love of vivid color can be traced back to his childhood. Singapore is at the heart of his designs, just as his knowledge of skins has been passed down from his great-grandfather, who came to Singapore, which was then a British colony, from China.
“I was surrounded by so many tropical plants, and as a kid I was always fed with a plate of dragon and star fruits,” Mr. Koh explains as he puts out some of the exotic fruit to compete with the colorful purses.
“I would say all my bags are inspired by Asian spices,” he said. “Sometimes I take the spice or fruit to the family’s tannery, where my brother does some development with me. It really touches our hearts.”
Mr. Koh’s heart is in his birth country — even though he lives in tony Mayfair and works with Italian craftspeople, and the family business, Heng Long, has been bought by the global luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
“I am absolutely proud of the way my city has become,” he says. “It used to be a tropical rain forest. Then it became a fishing village and Singapore was an entry port of trade. We have a great mix of the Chinese, the Malaysian, the Indians and even the Eurasians.”
“While I am extremely proud of my city for modernization and globalization, a certain part of our culture has been a little bit lost,” he continues. “I see my task as not just to design beautiful crocodile bags to satisfy women’s desires, but also to share with my friends and family our genuine culture. We have to be proud of who we are, our heritage and what we stand for.”
Singapore on His Mind
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